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Santorini

Greece, Travel

Pyrgos, Santorini – A Santorini Secret

August 16, 2021
Church in Pyrgos Santorini

The former capital of Santorini is Pyrgos. Pyros, Santorini is a stunning Greek village located in the middle of Santorini. The village is home to the best-preserved medieval settlement on the island. Pyrgos offers panoramic views as it is the highest village on the island, and on clear days, you can see all the way to Crete.

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The village of Pyrgos is just as beautiful as the village of Oia, but the best part is that locals still live here. Pyrgos also boasts some amazing restaurants, and many of them offer an amazing view of Santorini. Best of all, it is a Santorini secret as you won’t find many tourists staying here.

Why should you visit Pyrgos, Santorini? Pyrgos gives you a sense of what a traditional Greek village is. People say hello to you, the church bells ring, you see families chatting to each other and see them all go about their daily lives. Santorini doesn’t have too many of these traditional villages left, so this is one of the best opportunities to do so while on Santorini. This is great if you will not be visiting another island while in Greece.

Things to Do in Pyrgos

Pyrgos village is not large, but there are still a few things to do, and it is a great place to visit a more traditional Greek village. It is the perfect way to spend an afternoon on Santorini island.

Climb to the top of Pyrgos Kasteli

Sitting on the top of the hill in Pyrgos is a castle known as Pyrgos Kasteli. The Kasteli is a ruin, so you cannot go inside, but it is worth going to the top. At the top, you can get panoramic views of all of Santorini. It is also interesting to see that the castle was made of black volcanic rocks.

The top of the Kastel is a great place to watch the famous Santorini sunset. You can either watch from the top of the castle or visit one of the many restaurants that are located there. Two favorites for this are Rosemary and Franco’s Cafe.

Pyrgos Main Square

Like most villages in Greece, the main square in Pyrgos is a hive of activity. There are several restaurants to see in to watch the town activity. This is also where the public bus picks you up to take you to Thira. The supermarket is located here as well. If people-watching is a favorite activity of yours, this is the place to sit. Try it at different times of the day to see what differences you might see.

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Santo Wines

Santorini is known for its wine production, and one of the biggest wineries is located right on the outskirts of Pyrgos, Santo Wines. You can take a tour and have a wine tasting at Santo Wines. One of the most popular Santorini wines is the Assyrtiko. Santo has several wines made with the Assyrtiko grape and a few other options, including red wine. If you don’t have time for a tour, you can stop in their gift shop to purchase the wine and other products.

Pyrgos Restaurants

One of the best things you can do in Pyrgos is to eat out. For such a small village, it has an abundance of excellent restaurants. If you are spending a few days in Santorini, I recommended eating in Pyrgos more than once.

Brusco

Brusco is right in the main square of Pyrgos and offers a great spot for people-watching. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The lunch and dinner are a mix of mezedes, which are like tapas, and sandwiches. Don’t worry, the portions are big. It is also a great stop for a drink either before or after dinner. They offer a good selection of Santorini wines. My recommendations to eat are the vegan beetroot salad (I like it better than the regular one) and the talagani cheese with fig jam.

Rosemary

Rosemary is located at the top of the Pyrgos castle. The view from the restaurant is stunning. Not only can you see the whole island, but it is also a great place to watch the sunset. The menu features gourmet Greek food. Make sure to make a reservation to secure a view while eating!

Penelope’s

Penelope’s is another mezedes place but offers stunning views of Pyrgos and the surrounding area. It is also a top spot to watch the sunset while having dinner in Santorini. The location is not just great for the famous Santorini sunset view, but it is below the large church in Pyrgos, and some of the seats are under the bell tower. My recommendations to eat there are the spetsofai and the fava. Penelope’s also offers breakfast.

Cava Alta

Cava Alta also offers amazing views from their roof deck dining area as well as inside seating. Unlike many of the restaurants mentioned here, this restaurant serves Mediterranean food with a hit of Santorini taste. Of course, they offer amazing wines to complement their food.

Kantouni

Kantouni offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner! They offer huge omelets for breakfast and healthy salads for lunch. Dinner brings classic Greek dishes. The location is right next to Brusco and is a great place to people watch as well.

Where to Stay in Pyrgos

Demeter Cave House

Are you coming to Santorini on a romantic vacation? Demeter Cave House is just the place for you! This classic Santorini cave house has been fully restored. It is an adult-only villa with a private hot tub. There is also a roof deck that offers a wonderful view of the sunset. If you are lucky, you can see Crete on a clear day.

The bed in Demeter Cave House glows and is extremely comfortable. The cave house features a small kitchenette and a wonderful lounge area. While it is not a hotel, it is full service, and the owners are always available for anything you might need.

Use code agirlandherpassport to get a special treat when you check in at Demeter Cave House.

White Orchid Cave House

If you are coming with kids or some friends, there are few other cave house options. The first is White Orchid Cave House. It features two rooms. One is a self-contained studio that can fit two people. The other is a cave room downstairs that can sleep four people and has a kitchenette. These two rooms can be booked together if you are a large group as well. White Orchid Cave House is cute and clean.

If Santorini is on your list of places to go, I highly recommend visiting Pyrgos, even if it is just for a few hours. However, to get a real feel for village life in Santorini, consider making it your base while in Santorini. You won’t regret it!

Greece, Travel

Demeter Cave House in Pyrgos, Santorini

June 4, 2021
Demeter Cave House

Recently, I was invited by Demeter Cave House to experience staying in their stunning cave house on Santorini. I can honestly say that if you are looking for luxury in a traditional Greek village in Santorini, this is the place to stay. While I was a guest of the cave house, all views are my own.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on the link and make a purchase, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Santorini cave houses or yposkafa are common in the villages, and they are built into the sides of the hills. The cave houses are built to keep the heat out in the summer and the heat in winter. They are then whitewashed yearly to help them maintain the white exterior and sun-reflecting properties. The cave houses are simply built and usually have built-in furniture. Many Santorini residents still live in these, and many have been turned into vacation rentals.

Demeter Cave House

Demeter Cave House is a luxury cave house but still maintains its simple charms. Demeter is an adults-only making the perfect place to come on a romantic holiday or honeymoon trip. The cave house has been built with couples in mind as well, with two of most things being present. It is located in the picturesque village of Pyrgos.

Entering the cave house, your own private jacuzzi greets you. While you don’t have a caldera view like you might in Oia, you have absolute privacy, which is not guaranteed in Oia. You and your loved one can share a glass of wine in the heated jacuzzi and relax after a day of exploring Santorini.

If you want to cook on your holiday, there is a kitchenette with all the amenities to cook a simple meal. A bottle of Santorini wine is chilling for you in the refrigerator on arrival, as well as bottled water. Demeter Cave House will ask you if you drink coffee or tea before your arrival, so your preferences are ready to make on arrival. Unlike many hotels, Demeter will even provide milk for your coffee or tea! I think this has something to do with the half British ownership and knowing the importance of milk in tea for the Brits!

Demeter Cave House offers breakfast as an option to order after you make your reservation. They offer Greek scrambled eggs or strapatsada, which is my favorite breakfast in Greece. Strapatsada is eggs, feta, tomatoes and oregano. The breakfast also comes with yogurt, fruit, bread, orange juice and coffee. You can take your meals in the private area next to the jacuzzi, inside or on the roof deck.

Book direct with Demeter Cave House and get a surprise gift when entering code agirlandherpassport.

The television is a smart tv, allowing you to watch Netflix if you feel like a movie night in. Or if you feel like having a dance, there is a wonderful speaker that you can play your own music on. The sound quality was so good; I will probably end up buying my own!

Ready for an amazing sleep? The bed in Demeter Cave House is simply amazing! Not only is the mattress extremely comfortable and covered in pillows for all your sleeping needs, but it also glows. There are soft lights under the bed that you can control for a warm ambient experience. In classic Greek fashion, all the light switches for the room are located next to the bed, so you don’t have to get up after you have laid down to sleep.

Demeter Cave House Bed

I have saved the best for last, and that is the bathroom. The bathroom features double sinks and double shower heads! Convenience and comfort are top priorities in the bathroom of Demeter Cave House. Not only can you shower together, but you can also relax on the bench in the shower area.

Demeter Dave House bathroom

Santorini Sunset at Demeter Cave House

Trust me when I say you don’t need to be on the Santorini caldera or Oia to view the famous Santorini sunset. You can watch the stunning Santorini sunset from the beautiful roof deck of Demeter Cave House. Pyrgos village is the highest village on Santorini, giving it the best view of the sunset on the whole island. Also, you will avoid the crowds watching the sunset in Oia.

Sunset from Demeter Cave House roof deck
Sunset in Pyrgos Santorini

When you go up to the roof terrace, sit on the deck chairs that face the church, Agios Demetrios. The Santorini sunset will happen right over the roof depending on what time of year you are there, but this is a good spot for the summer. Enjoy it with some Greek mezes and wine for the ultimate Santorini sunset experience over Pyrgos village.

My biggest tip for watching the sunset in Greece and not just for the Santorini sunset is to wait for at least 20 minutes after the sunset dips below the horizon. The colors get better and better as the sun goes further past the horizon.

After the sunset, lay down on the soft cushy lounge chairs to watch the stars. These soft loungers are amazing to lay on. You might even fall asleep!

Services at Demeter Cave House

Demeter Cave House offers a wide variety of services that you might only expect to find at a larger hotel property. You can book things such as a couples massage, a sunset sail, or a honeymoon welcome package. Private pickups from the airport or the port can be arranged as well. Demeter is well connected to the local companies and can help you make reservations and suggestions on where to eat.

Greek mezes and wine on the roof deck of Demeter Cave House

If you need a car rental, which I recommend for Santorini, Demeter Cave House uses Pyrgos Rent a Car. I used them while I was there, and they were great! Renting the car was very easy, and when I returned it, they took me to the airport. They can arrange to pick you up as well. It is an additional fee, but no more than a taxi to the airport would cost. You need an international driver’s license to rent a car in Greece, so make sure to get one before leaving home!

What I loved the most was that after a day of exploring Santorini, I could come back to the quiet village of Pyrgos and Demeter Cave House and completely relax. Everything was quiet, and I didn’t have to worry about where to eat or where to watch the sunset. It was all on my doorstep!

Check Demeter Cave House’s availability directly on their website. Get a surprise gift when you use code agirlandherpassport.

Demeter Cave House Pin
Europe, Greece, Travel

Why I Didn’t Love Santorini

January 30, 2017

I debated writing this post for a while. I went to Greece in September and almost everything I have to say about it so far has been good. Santorini is the exception to this. I didn’t fall in love with Santorini as so many people do, and blog posts promised I would. Let me say this now before everyone tells me I am terrible, it is beautiful and it is romantic. However, it just wasn’t for me, but I am glad that I went.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on the link and make a purchase, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Crowds

I expected it to be crowded, but this was beyond my expectations! Most of the crowds were in Oia, where I happened to be staying. Since I had never been to Santorini, I want to stay in the heart of it or so I thought. There was a constant stream of people walking past my hotel. This was after the summer crowds have left Santorini.

The first night I was there, I headed to watch the sunset like everyone else. It was crowded, but not too much as I had been told to head there early. The captain of my boat advised me to walk further down from the fort where everyone gathers to watch. I trudged down a set of steep donkey crap covered stairs and claimed my spot.

Why I Didn't Love Santorini

After watching the sunset, I started the walk back to my car. I think it took 30 minutes when it should have taken 10! At some points along the way, I was stuck at a standstill because it was so crowded. The streets of Oia are just too narrow to handle the crowds.

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Santorini is a large island, larger than I expected. I had read up about getting around the island and decided that renting a car was the best way. Best decision in terms of time I could have made. However, the traffic on Santorini is terrible. Getting from the port to the main road was a winding road, and if you got stuck behind any bus or delivery truck, you could be stuck for a while. This was one of the main reasons I left my hotel two hours before my ferry was to depart.

Traffic and Driving

Getting around was made easier by the car, but all the roads are winding! It makes getting around take much longer than expected. As a result, I didn’t get to see all the things I wanted to.

The roads in Oia were so narrow in some places; cars had to go one at a time. Granted, I probably should not have been driving in Oia, but I was suffering from land sickness and walking in the heat was not a good idea. The narrow roads led to the long waiting area, and you had no idea if the traffic was moving or if there had been an accident. Only at night did I see police out directing traffic. It also didn’t help that my hotel was right at the start of the really bad traffic spot.

Why I Didn't Love Santorini

Parking in Oia can be done, but you have to find a parking space. The best spot I found was down the hill from the bus station parking lot. I was able to park my car along a wall that offered some shade.

Touristy

I am sure you are thinking, Tiffany it’s one of the most popular places on the planet to go and you didn’t expect it to be touristy!? I expected it to some degree, but some parts of it were over the top touristy. One of those places was Fira. Fira is the capital city of Santorini. I stopped here to buy an SD card for my camera and it was just one souvenir shop after another. It was also quite dirty. That is probably due to the overcrowding of Santorini during the high season. It also one the cheaper areas to stay on Santorini, which probably contributes to the crowds.

Why I Didn't Love Santorini

Oia had its touristy sections as well. Lots of shops along the walk to the sunset. Many of these shops offering souvenir and overpriced designer beachwear. Slightly ironic since all the beaches are located elsewhere on the island.

The Heat

I live in Qatar, and I am from Texas, but the heat on Santorini was something I hadn’t experienced. The combination of the heat the whitewashed walls created an oven effect. There is no offer of shade because all the trees have been removed out to build hotels! I had on sunscreen and still felt a bit burned after only an hour in the sun. Hats and umbrellas are needed!

Let me say you will be hard pressed to find too many blog posts saying someone didn’t like Santorini. I tried! I managed to find a few. One is Suitcases and Sandcastles, and you can read about how she didn’t think it was worth the hype. The other is from Hannah Rose and how traveling there as a backpacker may not have been the best plan. Christina of Santorini Plus, who is also a Santorini tour guide, tells you what not to do on a visit to Santorini.

Of course, tons of people love Santorini. Here are some of the posts I have found about loving Santorini! Radha and Brook from On Flight Mode think Santorini should be at the top of your bucket list and give some great tips on what to see and do! Angela from the Sunday Chapter gives us 7 reasons to visit Santorini.

Why I Didn't Love Santorini

How to Make Your Experience Better Than Mine

  • Go in the off-season, like October or April. The crowds will be less, and the weather will be cooler. Some hotels and restaurants will be open, but now that Greece is going to limit the number of tourists that can arrive by cruise ship more places might stay open. Give yourself more time. I was only there for two days. You probably need 3 to 5 days depending on what all you want to see.
  • Stay outside of Fira and Oia. Those places can be visited by car, and you can still have a great view of the caldera. If you really want to have a caldera view, stay in Oia one night for the experience and spend the rest of the time elsewhere. Walk through Oia in the early morning to beat the heat and the crowds.

I went back in May one year and it was so much better. If you are still planning a trip to Santorini, check out my Santorini Itineraries – 1, 3, and 5 Day Guides.

Have you been to Santorini? What did you think?

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