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Greece, Travel

Celebrating Easter in Tinos, Greece

November 11, 2022
Panagia Evangelistria in Tinos

Easter is the highlight of the Orthodox calendar in Greece. It ranks above Christmas and is one of the few days a year that ferries don’t run. However, the Easter celebrations don’t just happen on Easter Sunday! It is a week-long event, and there is usually an event every day of the Holy Week.

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Tinos is one of the best places to experience Greek Orthodox Easter. This is due to the Shrine of the Panagia Evangelistria (Our Lady of Tinos) and the church associated with it. Orthodox pilgrims come here to see the Icon of Mary found during the Greek Revolution of 1821. Pilgrims make their way from the port on their knees up a hill and into the church. You can see a carpet on the street for this purpose.

Easter in Tinos

Large candles at the Panagia Evangelistria in Tinos

Holy Monday

As mentioned before, the entire week up to Easter Sunday, things are happening in Tinos. Holy Monday is a service to celebrate Joseph the Patriarch. While some Greeks will be participating in some fasting during all of Lent, this is the week when many are very strict about fasting. Check with your hotel during Holy Week, as they can tell you all the events happening in Tinos town for the week.

Holy Tuesday

Also known as Great Tuesday, today is the day on Tinos the locals make a sweet Easter Pie made of unsalted cheese called tsimpito. Your hotel may have some with breakfast, but if not, check out one of the local bakeries to taste this local treat.

Holy Wednesday or Great Wednesday

Wednesday is dedicated to the woman who anointed Jesus’ feet with myrrh. In many churches, the anointing of the sick. Sick does not necessarily mean physically sick, and many will have themselves anointed in preparation for the receiving of communion on Thursday.

Holy Thursday

Thursday is the day that Easter Eggs are dyed in Greece. The eggs are usually dyed red to symbolize the blood of Christ. In addition, Greeks will bake Tsoureki, a sweet bread that will be eaten on Easter Sunday. The dyed eggs may be placed in the center of the Tsoureki. If you are lucky, your hotel will have some red Easter eggs for you to take.

Holy Friday or Megali Paraskevi

Epitaphs at the port in Tinos

Holy Friday is one of the bigger celebrations of the week. In the morning, women will gather to decorate the epitaph with fresh flowers. Around noon people will go to see Christ’s body that has been placed in the epitaph.

In the evening is the funeral of Christ. In Tinos, and in many places in Greece, the epitaph is taken on men’s shoulders and walked through the village with a band playing funeral music. Several churches in Tinos town will parade theirs in town and then meet along the way, eventually taking the biers’ to the port area. Then a service is given by the priests. One epitaph from the Church of Saint Nicholas is taken down to Kalamia beach. The priest will enter the water to give prayers for seamen.

If you attend this event, wear comfortable shoes and be prepared to stand for many hours. Following the epitaphs from the main church can get crowded as it enters the narrow alleys in Tinos town. If crowds are not your thing, you can skip that part and head down to the port to secure a good spot.

Holy Saturday

Easter in Tinos

Saturday is the first Resurrection, and you will hear “Christos Anesti” greetings between Greeks. If you want to respond, you say, “Alithos Anesti,” after someone says, “Christos Anesti.” Christos Anesti means, “Christ is Risen” and the response is “Truly He is Risen.”

There is usually a service in the morning and in the evening on Saturday. You will probably see and hear fireworks on Saturday for a while. Churches vie to be the loudest. Almost as if it’s a competition for the celebration.

Saturday night is also when the Great Fire arrives from Israel. In Tinos, it arrives by boat late in the evening. I was lucky enough to be at the port when this happened. Police accompany the fire up to the Panagia Evangelistria like royalty. Everyone gathers in the churchyard, anxiously awaiting the fire to be passed to them. Afterward, people carefully carry home their fire home, intending to keep it alight as long as possible.

Easter Sunday

The smell of roasting lamb is likely to wake you on Sunday. Families gather and spend the day eating. It is a good day to walk around and see what the Greeks are up to. There will be services and more celebrations today, but most people spend it with family. Find a restaurant to have some roast lamb at and enjoy the day.

One thing to note is that the ferry doesn’t run on Easter Sunday, so if you need to be somewhere on Sunday, you will need to leave on Saturday. The ferry on Monday was also very crowded, with people sitting on the floor. Make sure to book a seat reservation, so this doesn’t happen to you!

Orthodox Easter 2023

Orthodox Easter in 2023 will be on April 16. If you are planning on coming to Tinos for Easter or anywhere in Greece, you must book for Easter well in advance. Most Greeks will head to their home island or village for some or all of the week for Easter, so hotels and ferries book up quickly.

Also, remember that April and May are not the high tourist season, so hotels, ferries and restaurants may not be fully open. Your selection will be less. For some restaurants, I recommend making a reservation a day or two before, especially if you are with a large group.

In 2024, Orthodox Easter will be May 5, and in 2025 it will be April 20.

Things to Do in Tinos

Tinos has plenty to see outside of the Easter celebrations. However, the island isn’t fully open for tourists, so some things may be quiet. It is a good opportunity to visit the mountain villages as they are stunningly beautiful. You may need to rent a car at Easter since Tinos’s bus service is limited. A few highlights worth mentioning are the giant boulders in Volax, the dovecotes around the islands, Kolymbithra beach, visiting local artists and Panormos village.

Weather in Tinos for Easter

Ferry in the Tinos port

Spring in Greece can be warm but can also be cold and wet. Tinos also is famous for its winds. When I was there, the days were warm, and the nights were cold. Fortunately, I experienced very little wind, but it can happen and will make you feel colder. My advice is to bring layers. You might even want shorts for the days if Easter is later in the season.

Where to Stay in Tinos

There are so many beautiful villages to see in Tinos, and each will have some celebrations during Easter. However, many big celebrations and processions happen in Tinos town, where the ferry arrives. This is also the location of the Panagia Evagelistra. I recommend you stay in Tinos town and rent a car to explore the island during the day.

Poseidonio Hotel

Poseidonio Hotel is right in the center of Tinos town and about a 10-minute walk to the Panagia Evagelistra. The hotel has some renovated rooms that are very nice. They served breakfast and had a schedule of all the Easter activities. If you book early enough, you may be able to get a port-facing view so you can see the sea!

Book the Poseiodonio Hotel for Easter

Vincenzo Family Rooms

If you seek to be in a quieter part of Tinos Town, I recommend the Vincenzo Family Rooms. This family-run hotel is just a few minutes from the main area of town and offers incredible service. Bring your swimsuit, as they have a jacuzzi in the courtyard which will be nice on the cooler days of April or May.

Book the Vincenzo Family Rooms for Easter

Food, Greece, Travel

Best Restaurants in Naxos

October 15, 2021
Greek food in Naxos restaurant

Eating Greek food is one of the main reasons I travel to Greece, and I have been in Naxos long enough to tell you about the best restaurants in Naxos! I should add that there are even some excellent non-Greek choices for restaurants in Naxos as well.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on the link and make a purchase, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Oasis

Oasis is a family-run restaurant in Naxos. The restaurant is located in Naxos Town near Saint George’s beach. All of the food is homemade. Specials are offered every day and vary depending on the day of the week. My recommendations are the pasticcio, the stuffed peppers, and the pork stew.

Best Restaurants in Naxos

Barozzi

Barozzi is a fine dining restaurant located not far from the main promenade of Naxos. I was invited to eat at Barozzi restaurant in September 2019. When you enter you immediately notice that this place is a bit different than many restaurants in Naxos. The manager greets you and shows you to your table. The tables are further apart from other tables, unlike many traditional tavernas in Greece. The decor is elegant and simple. The waitstaff is all dressed in white linen.

Barozzi in Naxos

The menu offers a variety for everyone. You can choose al la carte, or there are two pre-set menu options. One is a 5-course meal or a 7-course meal. You could also add wine for an additional cost. I chose to do al la carte as I didn’t think I could eat that much food. First, I was brought an amuse-bouche of three different items. My favorite was the tomato one, which I can’t remember what it was called.

Then I had arugula or rocket (as it is called here) salad that came with thinly sliced apples, honey dressing, and fried goat cheese. Honestly, I could have had this for my meal and been totally happy. It was so good. The goat cheese was still warm and sweet and salty at the same time.

My main course was sea bass encrusted with artisanal bread. I was a bit hesitant about this, but I love sea bass so I want to try it.  I should not have been worried. It was fantastic, and the bread is so thin; it is more like a crust. The best thing is knowing that the sea bass was most likely fresh fish right from the waters of Naxos.

There are only three dessert options, but I still had a tough time choosing which one. I ended up ordering the walnut pie, which was more of a cake. The cake was moist and was served with bitter almond ice cream. The cake was good, but for me, the star was the bitter almond ice cream!

Barozzi
Barozzi in Naxos

Meltemi

Meltemi is located just up the road from Oasis near Saint George’s beach. It has been around for many years, and people continue to return year after year. Meltemi’s moussaka is one of my favorites on the island. The dip they serve with bread is excellent. Most of the food they serve is traditional Greek cuisine.

Best Restaurants in Naxos

Metaxi Mas

Metaxi Mas is located in the Old Town of Naxos. Here you will eat in the streets of the old town if you want or sit inside in one of the cozy interiors. Everything I have eaten here has been amazing. My favorites are the zucchini balls, pasticcio, and the spicy meatballs.

Best Restaurants in Naxos
Best Restaurants in Naxos

Faros

Not all of the best restaurants in Naxos are located in Naxos Town. Faros is located at Agia Anna beach and features organic dishes. It also offers a great view of the beach. Faros also has some of the best zucchini balls on the island. To get to Faros, take the bus from Naxos Old Town to Agia Anna and walk down past the pier and it will be on your left.

Kitron

Kitron is one of my favorite places for breakfast, lunch and coffee. It is located right in the main port area of town and is a good spot to ferry watch while you enjoy your meal. Kitron is also a great place to get some work done as the wifi even works outside there.

For breakfast, I order the Strapatsada. This scrambled egg dish is a Greek classic. The eggs are cooked with finely chopped tomatoes and feta cheese.

If you go for lunch, they have a variety of sandwiches to choose from or light snacks. Don’t forget that afternoon Greek coffee either. In the evening you can explore the Kitron liquor offerings. Kitron is made from the citron fruit and it is distilled on the island in the village of Halki.

Picasso on the Beach

Picasso is also on the beach as you may have guessed. Picasso is a Mexican restaurant, and as a Texan, I am always critical of Mexican food. However, Picasso does a good job given their limited access to Mexican ingredients. The fajitas were good, and they serve a frozen strawberry after dinner drink. Picasso on the Beach is located at Plaka beach and is reachable by bus. Tell the bus driver you want to get off at Picasso.

Paradiso

Most people stop to eat at Paradiso because of the stunning view its beachside tables offer at Agia Anna. However, you should also stop because the food is outstanding! The beetroot salad and the papoutsakia (eggplant with minced meat) were terrific. So was the semolina cake we were offered on the house. If you really like the location, they also have rooms for rent.

Best Restaurants in Naxos
Best Restaurants in Naxos

Scirocco

If you need a break from Greek food, then I recommend Scirocco for Italian food. My favorite there is the carbonara. They also serve Greek food if you and your friends are undecided! It is a nice place to people watch as it is located in the main square of Naxos Town and many Greek families gather there in the evening to socialize.

Barabbas

Barabbas is a traditional taverna located near the port of Naxos. You will see many locals eating here. It is only open for dinner though. However, once you eat here you will definitely be back. Their speciality is fish and slow cooked meats. I recommend any pork dish on the menu! When I ordered, the brought out a complimentary appetizer. Don’t forget to have some local wine here too.

Apostolis

Apostolis is a modern Greek restaurant serving classic Greek dishes with a twist. The restaurant is located in the Naxos Chora and has a wonderful setting under paper lanterns.

Naxos Old Town

Su e Giu

Sue Giu, also known as Susanna, is another Italian option. It is located right on the promenade of Naxos harbor. It was the only place I found a pizza with pineapple on it! Yes, I am a pineapple on pizza lover. It was good, and the focaccia bread was really great. Sit upstairs for views of the harbor.

Best Restaurants in Naxos

O Giorgis

For the more adventurous type, head to the village of Melanes and eat at O Giorgis. I had some of the best food in Naxos here. The baked eggplant was so well seasoned and melted in my mouth. I was so full but still managed to finish the whole thing. Sit on the enclosed patio so you can have a wonderful view of the valley.

Coffee and Desserts

Greece is known for good coffee, and Naxos is no exception. I have spent lots of time having coffee in Naxos to see which places serve the best coffee and desserts.

Artοποιώ

This coffee shop and bakery was one of the first places I tried when I arrived in Naxos. I was up very early due to my jet lag and they were already open by 6:30 AM. The coffee is probably the best on the island. The baked goods are freshly made in the shop and it smells heavenly.

σιτάρι

Not only does this place have wonderful coffee but they also have some organic products available as well. If I am correct, the bakery is called Wheat in English. It is also open early for those of you who are morning people.

Waffle House

This is not the American Waffle House, this is a wonderful ice cream parlor that also serves ice cream on waffles. You can get the ice cream to go or you can sit and have it brought to you by a waiter.

Best Restaurants in Naxos

Aktaion

Aktaion is an upscale pastry shop located on the promenade of Naxos Town. They serve a selection of gelato, amazing macaroons and other mouth-watering desserts.

Best Restaurants in Naxos

Are you ready to eat at the best restaurants in Naxos now?

PS. Some of these Naxos restaurants are only open during the tourist season from April to October, 
so please check beforehand.
Greece, Travel

Pyrgos, Santorini – A Santorini Secret

August 16, 2021
Church in Pyrgos Santorini

The former capital of Santorini is Pyrgos. Pyros, Santorini is a stunning Greek village located in the middle of Santorini. The village is home to the best-preserved medieval settlement on the island. Pyrgos offers panoramic views as it is the highest village on the island, and on clear days, you can see all the way to Crete.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on the link and make a purchase, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

The village of Pyrgos is just as beautiful as the village of Oia, but the best part is that locals still live here. Pyrgos also boasts some amazing restaurants, and many of them offer an amazing view of Santorini. Best of all, it is a Santorini secret as you won’t find many tourists staying here.

Why should you visit Pyrgos, Santorini? Pyrgos gives you a sense of what a traditional Greek village is. People say hello to you, the church bells ring, you see families chatting to each other and see them all go about their daily lives. Santorini doesn’t have too many of these traditional villages left, so this is one of the best opportunities to do so while on Santorini. This is great if you will not be visiting another island while in Greece.

Things to Do in Pyrgos

Pyrgos village is not large, but there are still a few things to do, and it is a great place to visit a more traditional Greek village. It is the perfect way to spend an afternoon on Santorini island.

Climb to the top of Pyrgos Kasteli

Sitting on the top of the hill in Pyrgos is a castle known as Pyrgos Kasteli. The Kasteli is a ruin, so you cannot go inside, but it is worth going to the top. At the top, you can get panoramic views of all of Santorini. It is also interesting to see that the castle was made of black volcanic rocks.

The top of the Kastel is a great place to watch the famous Santorini sunset. You can either watch from the top of the castle or visit one of the many restaurants that are located there. Two favorites for this are Rosemary and Franco’s Cafe.

Pyrgos Main Square

Like most villages in Greece, the main square in Pyrgos is a hive of activity. There are several restaurants to see in to watch the town activity. This is also where the public bus picks you up to take you to Thira. The supermarket is located here as well. If people-watching is a favorite activity of yours, this is the place to sit. Try it at different times of the day to see what differences you might see.

BUY MY SANTORINI ITINERARIES – 1, 3, AND 5 DAY GUIDES

Santo Wines

Santorini is known for its wine production, and one of the biggest wineries is located right on the outskirts of Pyrgos, Santo Wines. You can take a tour and have a wine tasting at Santo Wines. One of the most popular Santorini wines is the Assyrtiko. Santo has several wines made with the Assyrtiko grape and a few other options, including red wine. If you don’t have time for a tour, you can stop in their gift shop to purchase the wine and other products.

Pyrgos Restaurants

One of the best things you can do in Pyrgos is to eat out. For such a small village, it has an abundance of excellent restaurants. If you are spending a few days in Santorini, I recommended eating in Pyrgos more than once.

Brusco

Brusco is right in the main square of Pyrgos and offers a great spot for people-watching. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The lunch and dinner are a mix of mezedes, which are like tapas, and sandwiches. Don’t worry, the portions are big. It is also a great stop for a drink either before or after dinner. They offer a good selection of Santorini wines. My recommendations to eat are the vegan beetroot salad (I like it better than the regular one) and the talagani cheese with fig jam.

Rosemary

Rosemary is located at the top of the Pyrgos castle. The view from the restaurant is stunning. Not only can you see the whole island, but it is also a great place to watch the sunset. The menu features gourmet Greek food. Make sure to make a reservation to secure a view while eating!

Penelope’s

Penelope’s is another mezedes place but offers stunning views of Pyrgos and the surrounding area. It is also a top spot to watch the sunset while having dinner in Santorini. The location is not just great for the famous Santorini sunset view, but it is below the large church in Pyrgos, and some of the seats are under the bell tower. My recommendations to eat there are the spetsofai and the fava. Penelope’s also offers breakfast.

Cava Alta

Cava Alta also offers amazing views from their roof deck dining area as well as inside seating. Unlike many of the restaurants mentioned here, this restaurant serves Mediterranean food with a hit of Santorini taste. Of course, they offer amazing wines to complement their food.

Kantouni

Kantouni offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner! They offer huge omelets for breakfast and healthy salads for lunch. Dinner brings classic Greek dishes. The location is right next to Brusco and is a great place to people watch as well.

Where to Stay in Pyrgos

Demeter Cave House

Are you coming to Santorini on a romantic vacation? Demeter Cave House is just the place for you! This classic Santorini cave house has been fully restored. It is an adult-only villa with a private hot tub. There is also a roof deck that offers a wonderful view of the sunset. If you are lucky, you can see Crete on a clear day.

The bed in Demeter Cave House glows and is extremely comfortable. The cave house features a small kitchenette and a wonderful lounge area. While it is not a hotel, it is full service, and the owners are always available for anything you might need.

Use code agirlandherpassport to get a special treat when you check in at Demeter Cave House.

White Orchid Cave House

If you are coming with kids or some friends, there are few other cave house options. The first is White Orchid Cave House. It features two rooms. One is a self-contained studio that can fit two people. The other is a cave room downstairs that can sleep four people and has a kitchenette. These two rooms can be booked together if you are a large group as well. White Orchid Cave House is cute and clean.

If Santorini is on your list of places to go, I highly recommend visiting Pyrgos, even if it is just for a few hours. However, to get a real feel for village life in Santorini, consider making it your base while in Santorini. You won’t regret it!

Greece, Travel

Demeter Cave House in Pyrgos, Santorini

June 4, 2021
Demeter Cave House

Recently, I was invited by Demeter Cave House to experience staying in their stunning cave house on Santorini. I can honestly say that if you are looking for luxury in a traditional Greek village in Santorini, this is the place to stay. While I was a guest of the cave house, all views are my own.

This post may contain affiliate links. If you click on the link and make a purchase, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.

Santorini cave houses or yposkafa are common in the villages, and they are built into the sides of the hills. The cave houses are built to keep the heat out in the summer and the heat in winter. They are then whitewashed yearly to help them maintain the white exterior and sun-reflecting properties. The cave houses are simply built and usually have built-in furniture. Many Santorini residents still live in these, and many have been turned into vacation rentals.

Demeter Cave House

Demeter Cave House is a luxury cave house but still maintains its simple charms. Demeter is an adults-only making the perfect place to come on a romantic holiday or honeymoon trip. The cave house has been built with couples in mind as well, with two of most things being present. It is located in the picturesque village of Pyrgos.

Entering the cave house, your own private jacuzzi greets you. While you don’t have a caldera view like you might in Oia, you have absolute privacy, which is not guaranteed in Oia. You and your loved one can share a glass of wine in the heated jacuzzi and relax after a day of exploring Santorini.

If you want to cook on your holiday, there is a kitchenette with all the amenities to cook a simple meal. A bottle of Santorini wine is chilling for you in the refrigerator on arrival, as well as bottled water. Demeter Cave House will ask you if you drink coffee or tea before your arrival, so your preferences are ready to make on arrival. Unlike many hotels, Demeter will even provide milk for your coffee or tea! I think this has something to do with the half British ownership and knowing the importance of milk in tea for the Brits!

Demeter Cave House offers breakfast as an option to order after you make your reservation. They offer Greek scrambled eggs or strapatsada, which is my favorite breakfast in Greece. Strapatsada is eggs, feta, tomatoes and oregano. The breakfast also comes with yogurt, fruit, bread, orange juice and coffee. You can take your meals in the private area next to the jacuzzi, inside or on the roof deck.

Book direct with Demeter Cave House and get a surprise gift when entering code agirlandherpassport.

The television is a smart tv, allowing you to watch Netflix if you feel like a movie night in. Or if you feel like having a dance, there is a wonderful speaker that you can play your own music on. The sound quality was so good; I will probably end up buying my own!

Ready for an amazing sleep? The bed in Demeter Cave House is simply amazing! Not only is the mattress extremely comfortable and covered in pillows for all your sleeping needs, but it also glows. There are soft lights under the bed that you can control for a warm ambient experience. In classic Greek fashion, all the light switches for the room are located next to the bed, so you don’t have to get up after you have laid down to sleep.

Demeter Cave House Bed

I have saved the best for last, and that is the bathroom. The bathroom features double sinks and double shower heads! Convenience and comfort are top priorities in the bathroom of Demeter Cave House. Not only can you shower together, but you can also relax on the bench in the shower area.

Demeter Dave House bathroom

Santorini Sunset at Demeter Cave House

Trust me when I say you don’t need to be on the Santorini caldera or Oia to view the famous Santorini sunset. You can watch the stunning Santorini sunset from the beautiful roof deck of Demeter Cave House. Pyrgos village is the highest village on Santorini, giving it the best view of the sunset on the whole island. Also, you will avoid the crowds watching the sunset in Oia.

Sunset from Demeter Cave House roof deck
Sunset in Pyrgos Santorini

When you go up to the roof terrace, sit on the deck chairs that face the church, Agios Demetrios. The Santorini sunset will happen right over the roof depending on what time of year you are there, but this is a good spot for the summer. Enjoy it with some Greek mezes and wine for the ultimate Santorini sunset experience over Pyrgos village.

My biggest tip for watching the sunset in Greece and not just for the Santorini sunset is to wait for at least 20 minutes after the sunset dips below the horizon. The colors get better and better as the sun goes further past the horizon.

After the sunset, lay down on the soft cushy lounge chairs to watch the stars. These soft loungers are amazing to lay on. You might even fall asleep!

Services at Demeter Cave House

Demeter Cave House offers a wide variety of services that you might only expect to find at a larger hotel property. You can book things such as a couples massage, a sunset sail, or a honeymoon welcome package. Private pickups from the airport or the port can be arranged as well. Demeter is well connected to the local companies and can help you make reservations and suggestions on where to eat.

Greek mezes and wine on the roof deck of Demeter Cave House

If you need a car rental, which I recommend for Santorini, Demeter Cave House uses Pyrgos Rent a Car. I used them while I was there, and they were great! Renting the car was very easy, and when I returned it, they took me to the airport. They can arrange to pick you up as well. It is an additional fee, but no more than a taxi to the airport would cost. You need an international driver’s license to rent a car in Greece, so make sure to get one before leaving home!

What I loved the most was that after a day of exploring Santorini, I could come back to the quiet village of Pyrgos and Demeter Cave House and completely relax. Everything was quiet, and I didn’t have to worry about where to eat or where to watch the sunset. It was all on my doorstep!

Check Demeter Cave House’s availability directly on their website. Get a surprise gift when you use code agirlandherpassport.

Demeter Cave House Pin